I dont think it can be sanded, to be honest. The stain will have penetrated too deep, to sand enough of the wood off to get rid of the stain would probably cause you to go through to the ply in multiple areas, you may be able to use a stripper, then reapply the same stain and then lacquer, but you may be on a wild goose chase!
I just dont know how well that will turn out. We are looking to sell our home soon and need to either replace or sand and refinish. Is sanding and option with hand carved flooring?
Will sanding take away the hand carved look? The sanding will take away the hand carved look but a nice flat smooth clean look will be enough to help sell your house. In my honest opinion, it will look better than these fake factory scraped floors. Great website for sanding floors! I have engineered hardwood floors.
They look like oak to me. I had one flooring refinisher quoted it and he said the floors would be no problem. The next flooring refinished came out and said the flooring is 2 mm thick. I know the previous owners and he said the floors have never been refinished. Can the floors be refinished? Will the veneer layer be too thin after refinishing to last? Please advise. It will need a very soft touch with the sanders. If I were you, I would have a clause in the contract that terminates the contract at an agreed price if they go through the floor, covers their labour and materials up until that point.
Forgive me if I missed this subject if it has already been answered. We took on a 94lb Akita who has made some scratches. Since we believe resending is the only way to get that out we would also like to take it to a color that removes the orange tones in this floor.
Can this be done, and done well, say in Jacobean or a blend of Jacobean and Gray? It is possible but I have never stained Jacobean. A good pro can test with neutralising colours to cancel out other colours. We have engineered wood floors that are probably maple and have a very reddish color to it.
Wanted to know if its possible to stain it so that the red is less obvious. Thank you! Maple is very light indeed so its probably something else. Unfortunately, trying to bring down the tone of these red floors can be a very thankless task. It usually just ends up pink. If you want you could get a light green stain to make that red more of a brownish colour, but again it wont be lighter.
I have the same kind of flooring. Would one still need to sand prior to putting on a cool stain to lessen the red? Hi Ben, I my home had Eng. Hardwood in the family rm and living rm. I want to add it through the rest 1st floor except kitchen. I have found a eng. Can I have the new floor installed in other areas then have all areas sanded in order to match the color exactly?
Or is there something else you would suggest instead? If this is something you want to try to do yourself and achieve perfection I would suggest you think again. Some pros can do very well at matching the colour but thats it, it will never look exactly the same.
Hi we currently have really dark brown engineered wood flooring and has a lot of scratches. We are wondering if we can sand and polish it to get the stain off and have a lighter color and also to remove the scratches. Is it possible to get the stain off?? And how do we go about it? Yes its possible. Click around on this website and you should learn everything you need to know.
Id give you a link but its pretty much this whole website lol. Hi this website is awesome! Is it possible to replace the carpet and sand and refinish the new and existing floors and achieve a uniform look? Finish terrible, scratches very , very easily. Do you know anyone in Dallas,tx who can assit. Great article. We have hickory engineered hardwood.
They are about 11 years old. They have yellowed and would love to change the color. The top layer is only about a fingernail thick. I have a 5 year old engineered oak flooring finished in wax. We have a birch block random length boards in the sitting room, originally light oiled but 20 years plus on scratched and stained. It good idea to spill red wine and there are a few burn marks where sparks fro me the fire jumped out.
I intend to buy a Festool Rotex after such strong recommendations, probably 90 as there are lots of other sanding jobs to do. So aim to sand the floor from grit 40 upwards and put on light oil rather than lacquer. The hall has 80 year old Canadian oak where stain previously used has worn away. We could not match the oak but have birch boards as before, so plan to sand, put light stain or coloured oil or similar.
Oak door too. Very lucky. A bit tired ,no patina to speak of. Am a novice at this so any suggestions would be great. After that, engineered floors upstairs. Will look great. Hello Camilla, I know you may have other jobs to do that might mean that you need a smaller head, but for the floor, I would really recommend the The idea of sanding a floor with a 90mm rotex is just pure hell, it would take such a long time.
Also, the smaller head will make it more difficult to keep it smooth and flat. The head will be sanding with a flat surface over a larger areas keeping it flatter. Oops thought I had read through my post.
Missed out the essential word, not, when mentioning spilt red wine on the floor. Also other typos, sorry about that. Hello i have a Tarkett enginered floor in red oak natural. It has aluminum oxide finish and has many scratches. It has been down proably 15 years and I wanted to know how to sand and refinish. Also could we do polyurethane finish. What grit do we need to sand with and should we do with belt sander?
I would like to go to a buttersctch colr which is just little darker than they are now. Can you give me some advice on this. You certainly can use Poly, though, you might not get the darker effect you want, unless maybe you use an amber primer. Oils will achieve that colour a little more easily. Red oak is literally that though, red. I see very little red Oak in the UK and I absolutely love it, the grain and the colour is beautiful and I would be trying to keep the natural colour as much as possible.
I have a ten year old distressed hardwood cherry floor that has a factory applied Ultrawear finish on it. Every footprint or shoe print shows on it and it never actually looked clean and nice. I eventually put a dressing on it to perk it up and over the years have a buildup that I am not happy with either. Recently I was cleaning around the stool area with a cleaning solution and it removed the finish down to the original factory finish.
So now I am working very hard to remove the shine refresher over all of the floor. I know the original floor says it has a polyurethane seven step factory finish and am not interested in sanding it or staining it but would love to put a satin finish on that would bring out the beautiful wood…is that advisable?
I have some extra pieces that I could practice on but would like to know the hardest and most durable finish out there. Please give me your opinion.
Cherry is gorgeous, do the floor justice and bring it back to its former glory! I am not experienced in any of this being a female not that is limiting.. I considered maybe cleaning it well although cant really get it wet as all the finish is gone in spots and then trying to apply some finish to the area and see i that alone will darken it to the original butterscotch color or do I need to rent a sander and sand the whole room first?
Is the butterscotch color in the varnish that was applied or just the color of the wood itself? Also what grit sandpaper would i use as some areas have no finish on them at all and what type of varnish would i put on it?
They look like bugs. Is there any way to lighten these knots???? My house has this hideous orangey oak engineered flooring. Is this at all possible? If so what is the best way to tackle it?
I really recommend getting my video course and ebook if you want to stain. It is very very easy to do a bad job with stain. My husband spilled a pot of boiling water on our engineered hardwood floor Brazilian cherry leaving white stains. I sprayed Bona floor cleaner on it but I fear the water removed the finish.
What now? Floors are 5 years old and in otherwise good condition. Apart from resanding of course. Have a google, maybe contact the manufacturer. We are about to purchase a home in southern california. How do we repair these damage? Do we need to rip out all of the flooring and replace it? Im not sure about the wave pattern, that could be cupping caused by damp beneath. Hope you can help me with this.
Bought a house with fairly new Mannington Hickory engineered wood floor. The wood layer is 1. Where it bevels around the edges the wood layer goes down to 0. The manufacturer says it can be rescreened, but not sanded. I have no budget to hire professionals, but I hate the color enough to try to tackle this on my own.
I have ordered a floor sample to experiment on. My hope is to change the color from an orange brown with glossy finish to a dark brown with a satin finish. To do so, I was thinking I should: 1. If staining fails, then maybe paint the floor solid white using a marine paint. Do you think any of this might work or do you have any other techniques I could try?
We are buying a house with a lovely but fairly tatty wooden fingerblock floor. A small section has come loose.
Also, to sand down once all glued firmly back down , do I go diagonally across the check pattern? Do you have a guide for fingerblock floor? Hi, We have Mannington Proseries advanced ceramic finish 2. They are 18 years old and have scratches from dog and kids. We would like to sand and refinish in a gray wash coastal tone.
We live in Northwest Indiana Chicago suburb. Do you have any recommendations for contractors in our area? Thanks for all this information! Hello Megan, I have emailed you with some recommendations, I know quite a few guys in Chicago. Chicago has some of the best hardwood flooring talent in the world!
I am working on a directory so people can find local professionals themselves, should be open soon! Hello Patti, 1. I would say, short of putting a solid colour over the top, you dont have much choice other than rip out and replace. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news! I know it can be sanded, but what grit progression is recommended or should it be sanded only once and at what grit level? Is the floor very flat?
I normally start with a 60 grit on floors like this. The wear depth on the oak is 3mm. There is no cupping or warping but the lacquer has worn off in places and also some water damage after a leak. Can I lightly sand the whole thing to take the lacquer off then use a stain on the bleached areas to get a closer colour match across the whole floor before then applying a further stain to the whole floor do you think? Very helpful website, thank you.
Hello Ricky. Sun bleaching is a common problem and in my opinion, an absolute nightmare! It sounds like this floor can be sanded and improved greatly, but not completely. That UV damage is deep in the wood and where the lacquer is worn off, that damage will be quite deep too. As its only 3mm wear layer, I cant recommend sanding it yourself as you may go through the wear layer into the ply. You may not, but I would hate to have encouraged you if that happens.
I would hire some local professionals if you can. I hope it turns out well and I wish you the best of luck Ricky! Hi Ben, I recently moved into a house that has Engineered hard wood that is six years old, But has lot of pet scratches and dents and wear and tear.
I am trying to a hire a pro to sand and refinish this. One contractor gave me an expensive quote to sand and refinish with 3 coats of polyurethane and other one gave me a cheaper quote to do a light sanding and finish with two quotes.
Both have good yelp reviews but not sure which way to go. Light sanding or complete sanding? Please note this floor was never sand before. Sometimes it can actually exaggerate them.
Overcoating is great for floors that have very fine scratches and surface-level damage, this means floors that are only 1 to 6 years old. If your floor is a bit more worn and grubby, you probably need a full resand and finish. Be sure to get 2 or 3 more quotes so that you can be more sure of your decision.
Hi Ben: I have light oak manufactured hardwood floors and I love the color. The house is 11 years old and I live in the south.
I am seeing areas where it looks like the finish is starting to wear down. I do not want to have the floor sanded.
My question is there any type of finish or wax to bring life back in to the floor. It is more on the areas that there is more traffic. Thanks for any help you can offer. I have engineered oak flooring 18mm thick planks — possibly Kahrs in my small, open-plan living-diner-kitchen 30 sqm. I inherited the floor when I purchased the house, and its dark stain finish is not of my choosing. The solid wood layer is 5mm. And all the guidance I can find on grit types is for real-wood solid floors.
As this is a 5mm wood layer, do you know which grit level I use, which direction I sand, and how many passes I make? The sanding process is very similar to site-finished flooring. Generally, we like to cross cut on the first few rips. This helps get the floor flatter and gets all of the oxide finish off. Usually after 4 passes the hardwood is ready for buffing. We spray the entire floor with water to check for missed spots that are not detected otherwise. This process is called water-popping and it also allows the stain to penetrate deeper into the grains of the wood flooring.
Once the floor is has been stained then its ready for sealer and finish coats. The same process from here forward as site-finished flooring. One coat of sealer is applied. Finishing putty view on Amazon works well on these types of repairs. To apply putty, simply press it into the gouge and wait for it to dry. Of course, the best way to treat your hardwood floors is to try to keep them from getting scratched in the first place.
Remember that dirt and grit on your floors can act like sandpaper, scratching the finish. Keeping your floors clean removes this potential hazard and will help them look their best for years to come. Disclosure: BobVila. Beside above, how do you clean prefinished maple hardwood floors? Dust the floors daily with a microfiber mop or cloth. Since prefinished wooden flooring can be scratched by abrasive broom bristles, a microfiber mop is recommended over daily sweeping.
If you prefer to use a broom, make sure the bristles are extremely soft. A daily dusting should be sufficient for most areas. However, Bellawood flooring is so durable, it has a year warranty. And if you sell your home, the warranty is transferable to the new owner. While Bellawood flooring doesn't appear to be less durable than comparable products on the market, it appears that some of its durability claims fall flat.
Sweep, dust, or vacuum the floor regularly with a soft floor attachment not the beater bar to prevent accumulation of dirt or grit that can scratch or dull the floor finish. Occasionally wipe the floor with a damp mop or cloth. Sweep or vacuum the floor every few days to get rid of dust and dirt that may scratch the floor. According to the manufactuer, you should clean the floor as needed only with the Bellawood Floor Care Kit, which includes floor cleaner.
Spray the cleaner onto the mop head and use it to mop the floor. Can you change the color of prefinished hardwood floors? The answer is usually YES!
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